Stonehaven

Today's outing was a drive up to Stonehaven on the northeast coast, approximately halfway between Montrose and Aberdeen. I hadn't visited this place before but must have passed by in the past as it's the point where the A90 and A92 converge. We decided to take the former route for the outward journey and return by the latter. A nearby seabird sanctuary was one point of interest while I also wanted to view the famous Dunnottar Castle just south of the town. I figured on a couple of hours driving each way which made it a viable day trip.

Somewhere near Brechin on the A90, we stopped at a little service station for breakfast and then continued northward, entering the historic County of Kincardine. Nowadays administered by Aberdeenshire Council (which doesn't include the city of Aberdeen), Kincardineshire's main towns are Stonehaven, Laurencekirk and Inverbervie. This part of Scotland is also known as the Mearns. The county is a triangular shaped piece of territory between Angus and Aberdeenshire. It was nice to see brown road signs commemorating the traditional boundaries. One rather distressing sight was an overturned car on the opposite carriageway. The south-bound section had been closed and I instantly thought the occupant of the vehicle would have been lucky to escape with his life. I checked the news later and discovered he sadly didn't. Apparently no other party was involved. Perhaps the driver fell asleep? Who knows how these things happen. We reached Stonehaven without further incident but it was difficult to find a parking place. The on-street bays in the town centre had been blocked off for social distancing reasons and this had put pressure on the car-park by the main square. I cruised around until I was able to nab a spot not far from the harbour area. We were all set for a nice coastal stroll, when the heavens opened. Fortunately we were still close enough to the car to avoid a serious soaking but that was the extent of our town exploration! We headed for Dunnottar Castle, hoping the downpour would ease. As we approached the edge of town, I noticed a signed walk along the clifftops to the castle which would have been a great option on a dry day.

Dunnottar is a ruined fortress atop a rocky headland. Believed to have been fortified in the early Middle Ages, the present buildings date from the 15th and 16th centuries. The castle is best known for being the place where the Honours of Scotland (the crown jewels) were hidden from Oliver Cromwell's invading army in the mid-1600s. A narrow strip joins the promontory to the mainland and a steep path leads up to the gatehouse. Access was barred in any case due to Covid but I doubt I would have paid to enter the castle compound because the view from the coastal path was - in my opinion - the superior attraction. Truly a wondrous sight and one beheld by people of myriad nationalities. The northeast of Scotland doesn't quite have the pulling power of the Highlands but there are undoubtedly areas of world-class beauty. By this time the rain had gone off and we were able to take our time and view the isolated castle from multiple angles. The next destination was just a few miles down the coast - Fowlsheugh Nature Reserve, owned by the RSPB. The towering cliffs are packed with more than 130,000 breeding seabirds during the spring and summer months. These include guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes, along with occasional visits from puffins and fulmars. Seals and dolphins are also known to pop their heads above the churning waters. Access was via a single-track road with space for half a dozen cars to park at the end. There were a couple of private houses perched on the clifftops. What a view to wake up to every morning!

The reserve was unmanned and there was most probably a donation box in the car park. We do however pay our membership fee on a monthly basis, along with a subscription to the Scottish Wildlife Trust. I'm more than happy to channel a few pounds from my wages into helping our indigenous animals. A path led down to a viewpoint which enabled us to look right into a sea-battered cove. Hundreds of kittiwake were clustered on the ledges and I managed to get a nice shot of a mother with her two chicks. Care had to be taken as there were no barriers to prevent a sheer drop but I'm naturally reticent in these situations anyway - usually standing a good yard further back than I absolutely have to. Often leaning slightly back with my front foot wedged against something solid. I'm ok with heights so long as I maintain a sturdy position. There were a number of locals fishing down by the shore. My brother is a keen angler and I did join him on a couple of occasions many years ago but it simply wasn't for me. I found the whole concept of hanging around the water's edge waiting on a bite boring beyond belief. Now if we're talking about the arrival of a steam train on the edge of a field then that's a different matter entirely! But no, I'm not cut out to be a fisherman at all. Satisfied with our wander around Fowlsheugh, we bolted back down the A92, driving through Inverbervie, home of the famous chipper. We pulled in at Monifieth, just north of Dundee. My folks had their static caravan here for a few years and we wanted to visit the diner on the edge of the site. Many a fry-up was enjoyed there in the past but we missed the boat today as full opening hours hadn't yet been restored. Nevertheless, it had been a nice day trip to a new part of Scotland.