Fife Pilgrim Way

Many people come from miles around to walk the Fife Coastal Path - a 117 mile route running from Kincardine to Newburgh. In 2019, a new long-distance route was unveiled in the Kingdom. The Fife Pilgrim Way plots a 64-mile course inland and ends at the ancient town of St Andrews. There are two starting points - the old ports of Culross and North Queensferry. They are equidistant from Dunfermline Abbey, after which a single trail approximates the route taken by medieval pilgrims on the way to worship at the shrine of our national Patron Saint. My sister and I decided we would do the various stages together but lockdown disrupted our schedule and I ended up doing the two legs to Dunfermline on my own once the restrictions were gradually eased. Linda has since walked these two stretches and we now await the better weather to tackle the rest of the Pilgrim Way.

The Royal Burgh of Culross is a place I know well. I've done a lot of exploring around the historic settlement and the place is a day trip in itself. Many properties are in the care of the National Trust and tourist numbers have been boosted in recent years with the international success of the fantasy TV series Outlander - parts of which were filmed in the vicinity. The village is the best surviving example of a burgh from the 17th and 18th centuries. Culross grew around the coal mining industry in an age when a sea connection was vital for exporting goods. The world's first underwater coal mine was constructed here in the late 1500s by George Bruce. Salt panning was another major activity and Robert Preston upped the ante by integrating mining and salt production on his own man-made island! Things took a downward turn with the coming of the railways as the iron road didn't initially serve Culross. A connection was belatedly established in 1906 but passenger services only lasted 25 years as faster connections to Stirling, Edinburgh and Glasgow were available via the Dunfermline Upper line. By1930, the motor bus began hoovering up local traffic and Culross Station was closed. The railway itself continued as a vital freight link and is still in existence today, although trains are few and far between following the demolition of Longannet Power Station - the last coal-fired behemoth in Scotland. Regular buses run between Dunfermline and Culross and I hopped aboard on a fine Sunday morning, alighting at the village green to begin my assault on the Fife Pilgrim Way. I noted the recently installed plaque dedicated to the falsely accused witches of Scotland and made my way across to the best known building. Painted in bright yellow, Culross Palace is run by the National Trust for Scotland. It was built around 1600 as the home for George Bruce and visitors can marvel at the original painted woodwork and beautifully restored 17th and 18th-century interiors. Although never actually a royal residence, King James VI paid a visit in 1617 and also toured the undersea coal mine - an industrial marvel of its time. The palace was closed today but it was easy enough to hold my iPhone above the boundary wall for a sunlit photo. The Pilgrim Way basically starts in the centre of Culross before winding its way steeply uphill to the abbey. Close to the palace is a bust of Admiral Thomas Cochrane - a renowned figure in the British Navy. Born in Lanarkshire, he grew up in Culross on the family estate. Cochrane distinguished himself during the Napoleonic Wars and was nicknamed Le Loup des Mers by the French - The Sea Wolf. He was dismissed from the Royal Navy in 1814 following a controversial conviction for fraud. His next move was to organise and lead the rebel forces of Chile and Brazil during their respective successful wars of independence through the 1820s. While in charge of the Chilean Navy, Cochrane also contributed to Peruvian independence. Clearly a guy who got around!

In 1832, he was pardoned by the Crown and reinstated in the Royal Navy. After several promotions, he died in 1860 with the rank of Admiral of the Red, and the honorary title of Rear-Admiral of the United Kingdom. His tomb is on the floor of Westminster Abbey directly in front of the choir. Cochrane's life and exploits inspired several examples of naval fiction, particularly the figures of C. S. Forester's Horatio Hornblower and Patrick O'Brian's protagonist Jack Aubrey. I wandered past the historic Town House - once the legal and commercial centre of the burgh - before making my way up the narrow cobbled streets towards the Mercat Cross - a common feature in a Royal Burgh, usually at the junction of several roads. It was pleasing to have the opportunity to snap this Scheduled Ancient Monument without parked cars intruding in the background. An A-listed structure, the shaft and unicorn head are replacements dating from 1902 but the octagonal base is the 16th-century original. Culross truly is a fascinating place that has somehow remained frozen in time. It's so interesting to poke around and discover all the little nooks and crannies. There are a few cafés and a traditional pub where you can rest your legs and wet your thrapple afterwards. I hiked up to the site of the abbey, which contains a mixture of ruins and the modern functioning church (itself incorporating far older parts). Again, places I know well, but I wanted to gain the full pilgrim experience. The Cistercian abbey was formally established in 1217 and experienced many changes during its existence. Following the Reformation of 1560, monastic life came to an end and the domestic buildings were largely left to fall into disrepair. The A-listed manse was built upon the site of the old west range in 1637 and the square tower is even older, dating from around 1500. The present parish church has been in continuous use since 1633 but underwent modernisation in 1824 and further renovations at the start of the 20th century. A real mish-mash of the ancient and not so old but reflective of shifting times and religious preferences. I strolled around the graveyard and poked my head through the open doorway carved into the wall for a look at the adjacent mansion house, another building that has seen several alterations since it's initial construction in 1604. A grassy path led me back to sea level and I passed the foundations of Mungo's Chapel next to the main road before cutting along past the site of the vanished railway station and over the tracks towards the water's edge.

It was then a case of walking parallel to the railway line that once hugged the shoreline at this point, but now has the bulwark of "Preston Island" in between. The brainchild of industrial baron Robert Preston (he did actually have the aristocratic title too) now sits amid a wider land reclamation project with the upshot that the original coal and salt production centre is now part of a peninsula. The area is however still referred to as Preston Island and forms part of a popular circular walk. The remains of the mines and salt pans can be viewed from behind a chicken-wire fence. This loop isn't included on the FPW and I battered on in a straight line. I passed through the neighbouring coastal villages of Newmills and Torryburn that ring the mudflats of Torry Bay. Local "witch" Lilias Adie is interred on the foreshore below a large slab and her tragic life story has attracted national media attention over the last few years. I have written extensively about this on other blog posts. Nicole and I often come down this way to watch the wading birds go about their business. Curlews, redshank, shelduck, widgeon and oystercatchers are regular visitors. I took a minor detour by Craigflower House, which seemed preferable to simply following the pavement alongside the B9037. Once the centrepiece of an extensive estate, the mansion house is now a block of modern apartments. It had stood empty for a couple of decades since Craigflower School closed its doors in 1979. BBC political anchor-man Andrew Marr was a "Craigie boy" and the building dates from 1860. The grounds have partly reverted to wilderness and a couple of core paths thread their way through. New housing developments have sprung up on parts of the old estate. Rather than re-join the main road and make the unappetising trek up to Cairneyhill, I followed a woodland path that shadows the Torry Burn. I was aware the route suffers from erosion but it was fine on a dry morning. I normally make it a rule not to deviate from the prescribed path by anything more than a trivial amount but on this occasion I granted myself special dispensation. Besides, Susan Beech who runs the excellent Fife Walking website had recommended it! I saw a couple voluntarily trimming back some of the encroaching vegetation. Nice that people make this kind of effort. On my phone, I noticed an argument was brewing about the shooting of wildfowl. I had posted on this very topic half an hour beforehand after spotting a sign at Torry Bay confirming the practice is permitted, but under certain conditions. I don't understand why people feel the need to roam around with a gun in this day and age, killing wildlife for nothing more than amusement. No doubt it makes them feel masculine. Never heard of a woman blasting away with a shooter. Maybe a few birds get eaten but I bet most die needlessly. Silly boys with dangerous toys. Hitting back with statements about countless farm animals being slaughtered every year is beside the point. Ah, nothing like a good social media flare-up!

I paused mid-walk for a cup of tea at my own gaff in Cairneyhill before resuming the trek to Dunfermline. Nicky's Garage in our village used to serve a great range of hot and cold takeaway food and Nicky herself always gave customers a friendly welcome. She has moved on to pastures new and the garage still operates in an unmanned capacity. Pay at the pump with your card. Handy to have fuel available on your doorstep but not the same as the old business. I turned off the main road to follow a network of farm tracks and footpaths that would take me to the edge of Dunfermline. I passed a cottage where several ancient rusting cars sit in the garden, slowly being consumed by vegetation. Interesting for me as among them are Rover and Triumph models driven by my dad back when I was a lad. I haven't quite worked if the vehicles are there for ornamental purposes or are simply old junk. I remember I once found a seriously corroded Ford Anglia (none were made after 1968) in the long grass on the fringes of an old estate just a handful of miles distant. It certainly makes you aware of your advancing years when cars you remember being common sights of your childhood are now regarded as vintage or classic. I had to navigate a few residential streets in Crossford before reverting to a farm road and then a lovely grassy right of way towards Dunfermline. I could see the top of the abbey church in the distance and I finally felt like a true pilgrim. Pittencrieff Park is situated on the western fringe of the town and I was soon within its extensive boundaries. Known to locals as Dunfermline Glen (or simply The Glen), the park was gifted to the people in 1903 after being purchased by former resident Andrew Carnegie. Formerly a private estate with the historic Pittencrieff House at its centre, the transfer to the folk of Dunfermline was enabled by Carnegie donating part of his enormous fortune to his place of birth. The son of a weaver, he had left for America with his family at the age of 12 - only the second time he had ever left his hometown (the first occasion being a trip to Edinburgh to see Queen Victoria on tour). Settling in Pennsylvania, Carnegie began his new life in the States as a bobbin boy in a cotton mill, working alongside his father. Young Andrew subsequently became a telegraph messenger in Pittsburgh and had the ability to memorise all the locations of the city's businesses and the faces of important men. His reputation as diligent worker gained him promotion and his passion for reading was boosted by Colonel James Anderson, who opened his personal library of 400 volumes to working boys each Saturday night. He was so grateful of this free educational opportunity that he resolved - if wealth ever came his way - to provide similar learning facilities for other children from humble backgrounds.

At the age of 18, Carnegie began working for the railway and through a series of (initially small) investments, he gradually accumulated capital. He eventually moved into the iron and steel trade and earned a vast fortune. At one time he was reckoned to be the wealthiest man in America - possibly the world. Carnegie always maintained "the man who dies rich, thus dies disgraced" and when he reached retirement age, he sold many of his assets for huge sums of money and embarked upon a programme of philanthropy. The foundation stones of the world's first Carnegie Library had already been laid in the centre of Dunfermline when Andrew and his mother visited their hometown in 1881. It stands in the same spot today and I have just renewed a couple of book loans as I type. I've been a enthusiastic user of public libraries ever since my folks took me to the children's section of the Lochgelly lending facility at the age of six. To the best of my knowledge, I've had a borrowing card with the Fife Library Service ever since. In the days before Google, you had to go to a physical library to look up facts and figures. While it's fantastic that we now have a previously unimaginable amount of material at our fingertips, it's pleasing to note that traditional libraries are still well patronised. The internet didn't kill them off. That was never going to happen. TV didn't destroy radio either. The library adapted to the technology as it always has done. You can now search the entire catalogue online and make reservations at leisure. An email or text message alerts you when your book is ready for collection. I remember the days when you wrote a request on one side of a blank postcard and your address on the other. You paid for the stamp and the card would be mailed to you when your requested volume arrived. Even at university in the mid-90s, this system was still partially in operation. I was able to browse the titles on a computer but I was informed by mail when they became available. Eventually, around 2500 free Carnegie Libraries were established around the globe. The Dunfermline branch opened in 1883 and was recently extended to include the new town museum. Andrew believed passionately in the value of education and also donated many millions to colleges and universities across the USA and UK. On a more local level, the trust fund he established for Dunfermline financed public amenities such as the theatre, swimming pool and of course Pittencrieff Park. When he died 1919, Andrew Carnegie had given away an estimated 350 million dollars.

The Pilgrim Way took me through the Glen and I finished up for the day at the entrance to Dunfermline Abbey. The modern church on the site has "King Robert The Bruce" carved into the balustrade around the square tower. I had another eight miles ahead of me a week later when I took a bus out to North Queensferry to begin the alternative leg from the Firth of Forth to Dunfermline. As the name suggests, the port has a royal heritage and the regular sailing to and from the West Lothian side was established by Queen (also Saint) Margaret of Scotland, wife of Malcolm the Third. After spending her childhood in Hungary, Margaret returned to England and married into the Scottish Royal Family in 1070. She is said to have used the ferry service on a regular basis for travelling between Edinburgh Castle and the capital Dunfermline. She died in 1093 and was canonised in 1250. After many centuries of service, the importance of the Queen's Ferry began to diminish after the opening of the Forth Bridge in 1890. A few decades beforehand, the traditional crossing had been threatened by the new Granton to Burntisland link which had a rail terminus on each bank. This venture was superseded by the grand bridge but the original ferry route clung on and gained a new lease of life as motor transport became increasingly popular and was floated across the firth on large vessels. By the 1960s, this arrangement had turned into a major bottleneck and a road bridge was duly constructed, thereby consigning the ferry to history.

I alighted next to the Old Town Pier, which was supplanted in 1920 by a larger facility on the western side of the town. A tiny lighthouse stands on the quayside and is open to the public during daytime hours. The lamp is fully functional and was lit by the Princess Royal in a 2010 re-opening ceremony. Access was denied today for obvious reasons but normally can can climb the narrow staircase into the control room and learn about the technical aspects of safely guiding ships through treacherous waters. The Pilgrim Way and the Fife Coastal Path share the same route to Inverkeithing and as I climbed up to the clifftops, I enjoyed tremendous views of the Forth Bridge. I never get tired of viewing this spectacular piece of Victorian engineering and to many it is the eighth wonder of the world.

The trail took me around Carlingnose point and the elevation allowed me to look across to Dalgety Bay and further downstream. I traversed the obscure sandy beach at Port Laing and approached Inner Bay at Inverkeithing. This is still an area of heavy industry and shipbreaking was once the dominant activity here. Some of the most iconic navy vessels and ocean-going liners were dismantled in this corner of Fife, including HMS Dreadnought and RMS Olympic - sister ship of the doomed Titanic. I trekked uphill to Inverkeithing town centre and paused for a rest in the gardens behind the old Franciscan Friary (pictured above). This A-listed building is one of the finest examples of its kind in the country and has parts dating from the 14th century. It mainly functions as a community facility nowadays and I have been fortunate enough to take a tour of the place on Doors Open Day. Inverkeithing was granted Royal Burgh status in the 12th century and there are several historical sights dotted around the High Street area. Sadly, it doesn't feature too heavily on the tourist trail and many people will simply motor on down the M90 completely oblivious to the existence of this old port town. It does have a principal railway station on the East Coast Main Line though, and passengers can change here for local Fife services. There is also a major bus hub within easy walking distance. It's not a difficult place to reach. The Pilgrim Way is well signposted but you have to keep your eyes peeled in busy streets where the markers are often placed on lamp-posts. A sharp left uphill turn is required in the middle of Inverkeithing and you cross the M90 on a footbridge before descending into Rosyth. There is a rather boring stretch of pavement walking alongside the A985 but you are then rewarded with the most peaceful rural section on this leg. The former agricultural hamlet of Pattiesmuir has a cemetery with over 300 graves (from several countries) and the path skirts the boundary. Now a designated conservation area, Pattiesmuir sits back from the main road and offers a welcome relief from the thundering traffic. The settlement was also a centre for handweaving but this cottage industry ceased around 1870 due to the increasing dominance of the power loom. The Douglas Bank Cemetery borders the conservation area to the northwest. The site was chosen during the First World War and intended to serve Dunfermline new town, the civil boundaries of which had been extended to include Rosyth and Pattiesmuir. Tours are conducted for Doors Open Day.

For the first time, the walk takes on a genuine rural feel as you wander along pleasant paths through the countryside. Dunfermline can be seen in the distance. I passed a farmhouse before joining the pavement alongside the B9156 - a quiet road leading into the bottom end of Dunfermline. I crossed over the Longannet railway branch and reached McKane Park - home of Dunfermline Rugby Club for the past 100 years. A goods rail depot was once situated here and this was the rendezvous point for the three trains that brought the spectacular Buffalo Bill Wild West Show to Dunfermline in 1904. As I approached the town, I could see Pittencrieff House sitting in a nicely elevated position among the trees in the Glen. A long-term purpose is being sought for the house after the museum within was considered redundant following the opening of the new facility as part of the Carnegie Library extension. I entered the bottom gates to the Glen and took the path that tracks the Tower Burn. Wagtail can often be spotted here, not to mention innumerable grey squirrels. The burn runs through a steep gully and an attractive man-made waterfall feature is passed. A more genuine historical site is Wallace's Well, once used by the townsfolk as a source of pure water. Legendary freedom fighter William Wallace is said to have visited Dunfermline on two occasions and he allegedly drank his fill at the well. Lady Margaret Crawford - the mother of Wallace - is buried in the nearby abbey churchyard beneath a thorn tree. She too was on a pilgrimage, to the shrine of Saint Margaret. Such exalted footsteps I was following! As you might expect, Pittencrieff Park has seen many changes in its 120-year history as a public amenity. It still regularly wins awards and attracts visitors from far and wide. I passed below the curious bridge-built-on-a bridge. A very similar example can be found at Rumbling Bridge on the boundary of Perthshire and Kinross-Shire. The double bridge in the Glen dates from 1788 when estate owner Captain Phin raised the viaduct to a convenient height by building two storeys – arch above arch. Above the upper tier is a shield cut out in stone showing the Captain’s arms, featuring two pelicans. One standing erect and another picking at its breast. The structure carries the road leading in from the abbey towards Pittencrieff House, past the remains of Malcolm's Tower.

I climbed up the steps to inspect the remains of the tower base. It would have occupied a good defensive position, looking over the deep ravine carrying the Tower Burn. Dunfermline became the seat of Scottish royalty in the mid-11th century and the first written reference to the tower was in 1070 when Malcolm III married Princess Margaret. All that survives of the tower today are foundational fragments of wall but an image of the building was adopted at an early date as the burgh arms for the town. Old wax seals suggest it to have been a building of two storeys with an attic. It might have contained around twenty small apartments. And so to the destination of Dunfermline Abbey for the second time in a few days. The new church was constructed in 1821 and many tourists come to view the ornate tomb of King Robert the Bruce, who of course led the Scots to success at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. When foundation work for the modern building was in progress, the resting place of King Robert the Bruce - who had been buried in the choir of the Old Abbey in 1329 - was rediscovered the remains were sensitively reinterred within a new housing, marked by a full size brass gifted by the Earl of Elgin (a direct descendent) in 1889. Robert's heart of course is missing, having been taken in a lead casket on a journey to the Holy Land before burial at Melrose Abbey, Roxburghshire. King David the First formally established the ancient abbey at Dunfermline. It became renowned as the burial place of many Scottish Kings and Queens. The first to be interred was Queen Margaret (later St Margaret) in 1093, and the final Royal tomb contained Robert, the infant son of James VI and Anne of Denmark, in 1602. The ill-fated Charles I of Scotland and England was born in the Royal Palace in Dunfermline - the last monarch to be born on Scottish soil. The palace was last used for a visit by Charles II in 1651 and thereafter fell into decline. Today you can pay an entrance fee to tour the remaining parts of the palace and abbey. Entrance to the modern church - which includes a small museum - is free. It is also delightful to stroll around the graveyard and from here it is merely a few steps to the town museum and the A-listed Abbot House - reckoned to be the oldest building in Dunfermline, dating back to at least the 16th century. Following a dispute over the lease and five years of enforced closure, Abbot House is now undergoing a programme of renovation with plans to reopen in a phased approach. The Gift Shop began trading in August 2020 and progress with the rest of the building has been hampered by the pandemic. Hopefully this historic pink-painted house will again be welcoming visitors soon. Even better if the café returns too!

This brought me to the convergence of the two initial sea-to-abbey routes and from here my sister and I are planning an assault on the rest of the trail. The next trek will be from Dunfermline to Kelty - another eight miles. It's worth pointing out the Pilgrim Way was created with public transport in mind. The theory is you can spilt the route into manageable stages with a direct bus connection back to your starting point. This of course relies upon the transport planners not making too many changes to the network. Another aim was to give economically challenged communities (e.g. ex mining) a boost by routing the Pilgrim Way through them. Who knows if the actual benefits will be significant but it certainly can't do any harm. Walkers need refreshments and nibbles to keep them going and many like to rest their weary legs in a pub or café after several miles on the go. I personally see quite a few groups passing through Cairneyhill who are obviously kitted up to tackle the trail. Solo walkers and couples are less conspicuous but any money they spend along the way will add up to a tidy sum. The next suggested stage on the official map was Dunfermline to Kelty - a distance of eight and a half miles. Due to time constraints, we opted to cut this in half. Linda and I arranged to meet in the abbey churchyard and we wandered past the Carnegie Library and the new museum that has been built alongside. Up to the High Street then out towards Carnegie Hall before picking up the course of the old Upper railway line that once ran through the middle of town. The station was blitzed around 1990 and replaced by a retail park. Passenger services had ceased way back in 1968 and trains to Edinburgh were routed through the Lower station, now known as Dunfermline Town. The line from the Upper station to Stirling was removed in the late 80s having only been used for freight for the previous two decades. It now functions as a cycle path as far as Clackmannan. We were walking in the opposite direction towards the present-day Queen Margaret station, where the Upper and Lower lines formerly split. This mile-long path passes alongside the cemetery and is flanked by new housing developments. A nice tranquil section. The prospects of this railway ever being restored are highly unlikely. Efforts to reconnect Dunfermline with Alloa, Stirling and Glasgow centre around the mothballed goods line that served the now-demolished Longannet power station.

The path went by Leys Park Care Home. Built as the town poorhouse and later serving as a hospital, this place had a double family connection for us. My paternal gran spent her final days here while my maternal grandparents lived in an adjacent cottage shortly after their marriage. The old railway ended at Queen Margaret Station. This commuter halt opened in 2000 and is a useful addition to the local public transport network. We then had to hike up the pavement past Queen Margaret Hospital. The maternity wing opened in 1985 followed by the general hospital eight years later. In 2012, NHS Fife decided to concentrate A&E admissions on Victoria Hospital in Kirkcaldy, a controversial move that meant the still-new facility at Dunfermline became a much quieter place. My only visit for personal attention was when I cracked my ribs during a game of football. After some poking and prodding, I was handed a packet of painkillers and sent on my way. We crossed an old mineral railway now converted to a footpath and - after checking the access point - I made a mental note to bring my dad along in the summer for a run on his mobility scooter. We soon joined a walkway that parallels the B912 up to to the village of Kingseat. This route provides the locals with a safe way to access Dunfermline on foot. The path elevation opened up excellent views across Dunfermline towards the Forth Bridges. We wandered through Kingseat and noticed a train sculpture. Although there was never a passenger station here, a web of mineral lines ran close by as the village was surrounded by several pits. After leaving the village, we turned on to a long tarmac drive that led past a secluded house and brought us to the shores of Loch Fitty - a popular angling spot. A causeway cut across a corner of the loch and the path led past a riding centre and emerged at the Lassodie war memorial. This was our end point for the day and a bus stop was handily sited just across the road. As luck would have it, we had just missed a bus and the next one was due in half an hour. The wind was chilly and we began walking back to Kingseat to keep warm.

Every town and village has a memorial to the men who fell in both world wars. Passers by may wonder why this one stands alone in the middle of nowhere. Once home to 2000 people, the mining village of Lassodie counted Sir Sean Connery as a childhood visitor. His grandparents lived there in the early 1930s - the decade when the local mines closed, forcing many villagers to up sticks. In the days before social security payments, no work meant no money. Local amenities included a Post Office, tavern, two Co-op branches, a primary school, village hall and church. The population haemorrhage was compounded by the fact that many houses were owned by the coal company and tenants were given compulsory notice to leave when mining operations wound down. In an unexpected development, the ghost village hosted a retreat facility within the former church and manse. The aim was to provide a venue for those seeking something further in their Christian life. Interested parties could come for solitude, fellowship, conference, discussion and prayer. One such visitor was the renowned Olympic athlete Eric Liddell. The venture lasted just a few years and by the 1940s, the church buildings and remaining village properties had been demolished. Extensive opencast mining in the area subsequently wiped out any traces of the fact a thriving community once existed here, leaving the war memorial to commemorate not just the dead but the very presence of Lassodie itself. Linda and I picked up the trail again on a holiday Monday and we decided to get around by bus for the day. Service 7B from Dunfermline dropped us at the Lassodie memorial and we proceeded into the former St Ninian's opencast mining site. After coal extraction ceased, the expansive area was supposed to be transformed into Scotland's biggest land art park, known as the Fife Earth Project - conceived by renowned American architect Charles Jencks. Preliminary landscaping was carried out but the initiative was holed below the waterline in 2013 when landowners Scottish Coal went into administration. A sculpted hill and large artificial lake were left behind. Some strange industrial themed artwork was plonked on the summit and the place was more or less abandoned. Noises were subsequently made about the construction of a £10 million steel spire dedicated to the Scottish mining industry but little more has been heard about this idea. The odd report surfaces regarding potential developers buying the site but until I see the wonga spread out on the table, I shall remain highly sceptical.

We navigated the wide (and very stony) industrial roadways and were soon in the more pleasing confines of Blairadam Forest on the other side of the B914. Once a huge private estate with coal mining operations taking place within its policies, much of the woodland at Blairadam is now managed by the Forestry Commission. Various family friendly walking trails have been created and there is plenty of evidence of the industrial heritage to discover if you keep your eyes peeled. Indeed, one of the colour-coded routes is titled the Mine Trail. The Pilgrim Way cuts across a mere corner of the woodland - past the engraving of the Beast of Blairadam upon an old railway bridge abutment - before passing below the M90 and through a pleasant green valley leading to the tiny village of Keltybridge. At this point the path strays briefly into the Shire of Kinross. We soon cross back over the Kelty Burn and return to the Kingdom. A tall sign for the County of Kinross stands by the ancient B-Listed bridge. The sign has somehow survived over the decades as local government entities moved away from the traditional counties into the realms of Regions and the modern Council Areas. This has resulted in some administrative councils having a "shire" suffix but not actually reflecting the true historic borders that stretch back many centuries - long before the United Kingdom was founded. Thankfully, the proper counties are now gaining increased roadside recognition in some parts of Scotland and a Kinross-shire banner has been appended to the Perth & Kinross Council signage at the appropriate intersections with other shires (although not - as yet - internally). I digress! We navigated a couple of residential streets at the bottom of Kelty before picking up part of an old mineral line that once ran from Blairadam Estate to a junction with the main Kinross line (sadly closed in 1970) at Kelty Station - which bolted its doors forever in 1930 due to competition from buses and trams for the local journey market. Yes, railway closures began decades before Dr Beeching waded in with his axe. We then crossed the main road and entered Lochore Meadows Country Park.

Known locally as the Meedies, this popular leisure facility was created in the late 70s by reclaiming land from the mining industry. A total of seven pits were sunk in the area over the years. This process of heavy coal extraction left a scarred landscape with large pools of water forming due to subsidence. The original Loch Ore had been purposely drained around 1790 in an attempt to improve the agricultural prospects of the estate. This met with only limited success and farming gave way to industry, with the last mine closing in 1966. A new loch was sculpted and the islands you see today are parts of an old railway embankment. The park is now a major centre for water sports but is also tremendously popular among residents in the surrounding villages. The trail took us round half the loch perimeter and the adventure playpark thronged with young children enjoying the final day of their long weekend off school. Benarty Hill dominated the skyline and I'd enjoyed a fine early-morning climb up there just the previous weekend. The plateau summit offers an amazing view over Loch Leven into the flat plain of Kinross-shire. I ascended on the Fife side and gazed across two largely man-made bodies of water in this corner of the Kingdom - Loch Ore and the lake that fills the deep hole at the former Westfield gas plant. Back to today, the visitors centre was completely revamped in 2017 and our final destination was the café within. Named after legendary communist councillor Willie Clarke, the enlarged building outlined the history of the Meedies on the café walls and we looked out across the park from our window seat. We even caught sight of Ferdinand, a white goose who has been causing quite a stir on Facebook. He spends all his time among the much larger swans, who seem to tolerate this interloper. I was impressed with the new facility and it is a lovely tribute to Mr Clarke, who served 43 years in public office and tirelessly represented the community. It is entirely fitting that Willie was able to personally declare the centre open. He passed away the following year. Having recharged our batteries, we heading for the exit, noting the row of heavy-duty mobility scooters available to use without payment. Must bring dad down here sometime for a whizz around the loch.

We headed for the main gate on the B920, passing the crumbling remains of Lochore Castle - once described as the strongest fortress in Fife. A ruined 14-century tower house, the castle once stood upon an island within the natural confines of Loch Ore, prior to the draining procedure. Construction began around 1308 upon the site of a previous defence and the walls of the new castle were massively thick at around 10 feet across. The building was reportedly in ruins by 1710 and, by the end of that century, seems to have become popular with artists. The remains were usually sketched as a picturesque offering, rising from the island location. Several drawings from this period show the main keep standing to almost its full height and the courtyard wall and corner towers largely intact with some of the ancillary buildings still visible within the compound. When the loch was wiped from the landscape, stone robbed from the castle was used to line drainage channels that diverted the natural inflow. The property eventually ended up in the hands of the Lochore Coal Company and continued to decline. The formation of the country park sparked renewed interest in the historic fortress and Scheduled Monument consent was finally granted by Historic Environment Scotland in 2015 to permit consolidation. Brick pillars were inserted to support overhanging masonry, stabilise the walls and prevent further collapse. Satisfied with our day's walking, we hopped on a number 19 bus bound for Dunfermline. Linda got off in Lochgelly to connect with a Kirkcaldy service and I completed a public transport journey that I made innumerable times in my younger days. The next stage would take us to the new town of Glenrothes via Cardenden and Kinglassie. The 19 brought me back to the entrance for Lochore Meadows but today we were heading away from the country park and a network of paths wound pleasantly through the fields, offering nice views of the surrounding hills. We investigated a short signed detour for Hare Law Cairn - raided by Victorian excavators who unearthed cists and urns. The burial site was left open overnight to allow locals to view the discoveries but the treasures had all been stolen before dawn. Now there is just a grassy mound with a tree planted on top.

That was an unexpected little tale to kick-start the journey. We paused for lunch before reaching the edge of Cardenden - a town with which I have very strong family connections. My dad was born here in 1942 but moved up the road to Lochgelly as a toddler. My mum came into the world at Forth Park Maternity Hospital, Kirkcaldy, but grew up in Bowhill, a local name for the central part of Cardenden. Both my paternal grandparents were born and raised around here too. The trail didn't go into Cardenden and instead we followed the pavement alongside the road to Kinglassie for a couple of miles. Not the most exciting stretch of the Pilgrim Way. I noticed the old freight railway link to the (now closed) Westfield gas and coal plant was becoming heavily overgrown. Must walk it before the vegetation engulfs the tracks. Strangely, the line is still technically open as it's connected to the Fife Circle route at Thornton Yard. Kinglassie has a population of 2000 and a handful of shops. One of my great grandmothers came from the village. Originally inhabited by weavers, mining arrived in the 19th century and became the dominant industry. The local pit closed in 1967 although opencast extraction continued at Westfield for a number of years. Gas was also produced here by the high-pressure Lurgi process, reckoned to meet 20% of Scotland's total needs. This was superseded by North Sea natural gas in the mid-70s. We could see the artificial lake created on the huge brownfield site - at one time considered to be the largest opencast operation in the UK. Local legend insists the accompanying cavity was the deepest hole in Europe! Well Nessie, if you're ever in the market for a holiday home... The financial collapse of Scottish Coal in 2013 put an end to mining at Westfield and the complex is now up for sale and rumoured to soon be the home of a recycling company. After traversing most of the main drag, we turned abruptly up a path leading to the ridge overlooking the village. Extensive views appeared as height was gained and we followed the grass strip beside a wheat field. In the distance stood Blythe's Tower - a folly constructed in 1812. The four-storey building is 52 ft high and built of rubble with ashlar string courses. It is a category-B listed. The interior was formerly floored to allow access to an observation platform. Owned by a linen merchant to view ships as they entered the Forth, it allegedly gave him the opportunity to procure the best goods at port. During World War II, the tower was used as a look-out station by the Home Guard.

Halfway up the mound was a 400-yard detour to St Finglassin's Well. The ancient spring is said to have refreshed travellers in days gone by and today the location has been enhanced by the efforts of a local stonemason. A wooden bench has also been installed and we rested our legs while sipping from refilled bottles. We couldn't quite figure out why the Pilgrim Way hadn't been routed through this historic spot, particularly as an informal track appeared to run down to the main road. Land ownership issues, no doubt. Back on the ridge, we passed by a farm before meeting a minor road. We reasoned that Fife Airport couldn't be far away as several microlight planes flew overhead. Unbelievably, a story appeared in the press the following day about an aircraft being forced to crash land in this very field. We must have just missed it! Fortunately nobody sustained serious injury. The path descended to the River Leven and we followed its course to the outskirts of Leslie before switching to residential streets. We then crossed the river on the impressive 14-arch curving railway viaduct that carried a branch line. Passenger traffic ceased in 1932 but freight trains served the paper mill until 1967. The viaduct was opened in 1861 and my great-great grandfather George Fraser worked upon its construction. He had moved down from Inverness-shire and married a local woman. I was traversing a lot of family history today! After years of decay, the viaduct was refurbished as a cycleway in 2003. We continued downstream for a mile and a half and reached Town Park in Glenrothes. This seemed a suitable point to leave the trail as the bus station wasn't far away. We had covered over 9 miles and treated ourselves to a meal at Burger King before boarding our respective buses back home. I had successfully managed to avoid hearing the result of the Women's Football World Cup final and I watched a recording of England defeating Germany 2-1 when I returned home. Linda was rather nonplussed that she had chosen the most circuitous bus route back to Kirkcaldy, letting me know via text messages. The following Sunday we reconvened at Glenrothes Bus Station for an 8-mile hike to Kennoway. We picked up the official trail at the River Leven and crossed over to exit Fife's newest town (planned in the late 1940s) via sports fields and a housing scheme.

A pedestrian crossing over the busy A92 led us into Balbirnie Park and almost immediately we came across a stone circle. The burial site is reckoned to be around 5000 years old, although contemporary pilgrims do not commune with the original place of worship. The stones were moved 120 yards when the road underwent a widening exercise. A lovely wander through the parkland ensued although the waymarking was a little vague in places. Nevertheless, we knew the centre of Markinch had to be negotiated and we worked our way towards the town that was once regarded as the capital of Fife. Cupar became the county town in the 13th century and since 1974 the Kingdom's administrative headquarters have been located in Glenrothes. The new town was never granted a railway station but Markinch is a stop on the East Coast Main Line. Papermaking was a major local employer and the Tullis Russell mill was in operation until 2015. Nicole was part of the workforce prior to administration and closure. A historic landmark in the middle of Markinch is the Stob Cross. A stone monument possibly marking the limit of a territory associated with the early Christian church, the cross has stood in the same spot for many centuries. The town was once a popular lodging location for medieval pilgrims. The popularity of this passage led to the creation of a network of roads, bridges, almshouses and - of course - inns. Jesus would most certainly have approved! Passing under the railway, we spent the next three miles on field boundary paths, mainly alongside a burn. It was a nice quiet section, although largely featureless. We didn't meet a single person on this stretch and it has to be said the Pilgrim Way is decidedly less busy than the Fife Coastal Path. Onwards we pushed and the large village of Kennoway hove into view. We walked almost a mile of pavement beside the A916 before reaching the cluster of shops and bus turning circle in the centre of Kennoway. Awaiting a service back to Glenrothes, we came to the conclusion that the trail didn't skirt the village through the more picturesque wooded den as part of the reason for establishing the route was to bring economic benefits to businesses off the beaten track. We had now done three quarters of the total way.

It was now October and I had my usual fortnight off work. I suggested to Linda we tackle the penultimate stage while there were still sufficient daylight hours. We used the X61 bus (boarding at different points) to reach Kennoway and walked to the edge of the town before branching into the countryside. This pleasant rural stage had minimal road walking (even then, only minor routes) and we wouldn't encounter any civilisation until the final destination of Ceres. Height was steadily gained and there were nice views of Largo Law in the distance. A navigational problem occurred in the woods where passage was blocked due to tree felling operations. We couldn't figure out if there was a detour but - as luck would have it - a Fife Council ranger appeared on the scene and pointed us in the right direction. Once on the alternative path, it was easy enough to circumvent the huge pile of toppled trees. We skirted the picturesque Clatto Reservoir - apparently the only section of the Pilgrim Way that did not make use of pre-existing routes. The reservoir was constructed in 1874 to supply Cupar, the county town. No longer used for this purpose, Clatto is now a quiet nature reserve. We found a couple of large rocks to sit on to eat lunch and then crossed varied terrain to join Waterless Road for the final trek downhill to Ceres. Part of the ancient pilgrim route to St Andrews, the Waterless Road was used by Archbishop James Sharp - whose support for Episcopalianism (governance by bishops, usually appointed by the monarch), brought him into conflict with elements of the kirk who advocated Presbyterianism (rule by Elders, nominated by their congregations). Twice the victim of assassination attempts, the second strike cost Sharp his life at Magus Muir, three miles west of St Andrews. In 1679, a group of nine Covenanters, led by David Hackston and John Balfour, were hoping to ambush the Sheriff of Cupar. A Sharp appointee, the Sheriff was a prominent figure in the persecution of Covenanters but had apparently got wind of the proposed attack and had opted to stay at home. Learning Sharp's coach was on its way, the group intercepted this vehicle instead. Sharp was stabbed several times in front of his daughter Isabella, before being killed by a shot to the chest. Another casualty of religious conflict. Nothing new there! We arrived in Ceres, one of the few places in Scotland to have a traditional village green. The excellent Fife Folk Museum is located here and the village hosts the longest-running Highland Games, said to have been held every year since 1314 after Robert the Bruce granted the village permission to hold them in commemoration of its men's participation in the Battle of Bannockburn.

We passed a quaint café but our bus was due in 10 minutes and we decided to have a closer look at Ceres next time around. Six days later, we arrived on the X61 to complete the final leg of the Pilgrim Way. After a scout around the village centre, we crossed the historic stone-arch bridge over the burn and headed out of the village on a path that led between the fields. Ceres sits in a dip and was historically the final overnight stay for those making their way to the shrine of St Andrew. We soon gained height, pausing on a stone bench to admire the valley view. We gingerly crept past a herd of cows that had strayed close to the designated pathway. We passed over Kinninmonth Hill and then followed a quiet minor road that skirted Drumcarrow Craig. Suddenly the sea was visible in the distance and Linda remarked how it must have been an encouraging sight for the original pilgrims. The pleasant hamlet of Denhead was encountered and the path led into a patch of woodland. Upon exit, we were presented with a fine panorama of St Andrews, a couple of miles away from our elevated position. We passed a golf course before proceeding into Craigtoun Country Park. A bench by the boating pond was a nice spot to eat lunch and a miniature train named Puffing Billy trundled past. The 47-acre park thronged with families enjoying the October school holidays and a range of activities were on offer, including crazy golf, pedal go-carts, trampolines and an adventure playground. Some of the attractions require a fee and both day and annual passes are available. The grounds were formerly part of the Mount Melville Estate. A new mansion house was constructed in 1901 by the Younger family, a major Scottish brewing dynasty. The esteemed Paul Waterhouse was hired to design the fabric of the private parkland which forms the bulk of today's public amenity - including the various gardens, cypress avenue and temple. In 1920, Waterhouse was commissioned to carry out further work and he added the two connected lakes and the picturesque island village. Like many country houses at the time, the large ponds were likely created to comply with insurance requirements for a ready supply of water in case of fire. Upon the death of James Younger in 1946, the estate was acquired by Fife Council and the mansion converted to a maternity hospital. The gardens were rebadged as Craigtoun Country Park.

The 1960s proved a peak for visitor numbers and attractions included a bowling green, stage for regular Sunday concerts, spectacular glasshouses, miniature railway, putting and crazy golf, rowing and motor boats and the aforementioned Puffing Billy tractor-drawn train. The end of each season was marked in September with the Craigtoun Illuminations – a spectacular fireworks display. With the park under threat of closure after a period of decline, the Friends of Craigtoun took over the running of the place in 2012, while Fife Council continued to maintain the gardens. The maternity hospital had closed back in 1992. We eventually reached the centre of St Andrews and the streets were bustling with students. The ancient university town is an essential destination in its own right and the trail led to the ruined cathedral. Built in 1158, it became the centre of the Medieval Catholic Church in Scotland but fell into disuse and ruin after mass was outlawed during the 16th-century Scottish Reformation. The site is now in the custody of Historic Environment Scotland but partly fenced off at the moment due to structural concerns. The ruins indicate the building was approximately 390 feet long and it was the largest church ever constructed in Scotland. Linda and I looked for some form of acknowledgement that our quest had ended but we couldn't see any special marker or plaque. Perhaps there is something within the cathedral enclosure, which had closed for the day by the time we arrived. Never mind, we had successfully completed Fife's second long-distance trail. Footsore but happy, we enjoyed a well-earned pint in the Whey Pat Tavern before bussing it back down the road.