We live on the western fringes of the Kingdom of Fife, a natural peninsula which juts out between Edinburgh and Dundee. The Fife Coastal Path is a 117-mile walking trail that follows the shoreline from Kincardine to Newburgh, taking in a varied landscape. I have completed the route in its entirety and can heartily recommend it to fellow walkers. There are nearly always good public transport options for returning to your starting point.
The car reigned supreme today and we headed for the picturesque fishing area known as the East Neuk. More specifically, Fife Ness, the most easterly point of the county, near the harbour town of Crail. The nearest available parking was at Crail Golf Course and a sign requested that visitors pay £1 at the club shop. I certainly had no problem with that but the gentleman behind the counter was somewhat on the pompous side. We requested directions to the coastal bird hide and he stressed how dangerous it was to cross the golf course. He didn't say we couldn't do it though (but it was made perfectly clear that access to the clubhouse toilets was not granted to the plebs). Off we trooped and it quickly became apparent that the route over the hallowed turf was in fact an official core path. We had absolutely every right to be there and I hoped the bloke was seething from every pore. The hide was situated near the old Fife Ness harbour and a member of Fife Bird Club allowed us inside. It is a private viewpoint and we were soon furnished with membership forms for our consideration. The man was very friendly and eagerly outlined the type of bird activity normally in evidence.
We saw several gannets swooping around and a diver whose throat colour I can't quite recall. I might join the club one day. A point of interest for me on the drive back to Crail was the old airfield which is now partially occupied by a karting circuit. Many old dilapidated buildings remain and I had time for a quick look around the site. Racing was in progress so I stuck to the fringes. The airfield was opened during the first World War and used as a naval air station when the second global conflict broke out. The remaining structures all date from WW2. Crail also has a largely unknown connection to the Cold War as the airfield hosted a Russian language school to train intelligence agents. More information can be found in the town's excellent little museum. Our next stopping point was Anstruther, a few miles further down the coast. The famous fish & chips shop attracts many visitors (including Hollywood royalty and actual royalty), as does the general seaside ambience.
Parking was at a premium on a warm weekend afternoon in Anstruther but I managed to grab a space. We strolled past the harbour with its large array of boats. Commercial fish traffic is handled at Pittenweem down the road and it's mainly pleasure craft moored at Anstruther, although lobster creels continue to be deployed. We ventured on to the sands just as the sun fell upon the town centre, presenting a wonderful photo opportunity. There were a few gulls squawking away but no exotic bird action to be found today. Instead, we made a beeline for the ice cream café and found a seat by the quayside. Anstruther is a gem of a place I return to time and time again. Below the East Neuk lies a more industrial part of Fife where coal mining and shipping formerly held sway. Leven is a large town with a seafaring heritage. The adjacent Methil Docks were at one time a major trading post but decline set in during the latter part of the 20th century. The area recently received a boost with the announcement that the dormant freight railway to the old power station is to be reopened as a passenger service.
Leven promenade is a handy platform for spotting birds. Sanderlings often run along the beach and plover can be spotted among the rocks. Turnstone and oystercatchers are also regular visitors. One of the spectacular sights is to watch the gannets dive into the sea from a great height. All of the above were out in force today and it rounded off a lovely excursion in perfect fashion.
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