Beyond the industrial Levenmouth area on the Fife coast, a series of traditional fishing villages are encountered. This stretch is known as the East Neuk and is popular with tourists and day-trippers. Leven town will soon be connected to Edinburgh by rail and this new corridor should boost the economy of the wider East Neuk region as well. Nicole and I enjoy a drive up this way and we set off on a bright Saturday morning, bound for Pittenweem.
There was a reason for making this destination our first port of call. A chocolaterie (with attached café) is situated on the High Street and we had Christmas vouchers to spend. The Pittenweem Chocolate Company opened for business in 2007 and sources delicious treats from Scotland, Belgium and the wider world, including confectionery from hand-selected plantations. Owner Sophie Latinis is passionate about showcasing responsibly grown and unusual, exquisite flavours via the Fair Trade scheme. She also has her own bespoke range – Handmade in Pittenweem – including a series of single malt liqueur chocolates, presented in wooden gift boxes. Sophie discovered the East Neuk while over on holiday from her home country of Zimbabwe and she felt an instant attraction. The Cocoa Tree Café serves four types of hot chocolate along with a range of coffees and herbal teas. Sweet and savoury snacks are available, as is soup and artisan bread. We had a light lunch before purchasing a selection of chocolates from the front counter. A pleasant place to visit. The business is now back to full strength following the pandemic and a disastrous fire in the acclaimed chip shop next door. The popular takeaway had its entire interior gutted and has not yet reopened. We had a wander up and down the main drag, which sits high above the harbour. A glimpse down a narrow lane revealed a sea view and a cluster of fishing boats. Pittenweem is the last remaining truly commercial port in the East Neuk and catches are sold in the market hall. The presence of a working harbour benefits the local economy but doesn't necessarily provide a picture postcard setting. We didn't venture down today and decided to drive the short distance to St Monans, where we parked right by the seafront. The harbour is used mainly by pleasure craft and small vessels landing shellfish. The village has a history of boatbuilding but this trade has now vanished. One traditional industry to return to these shores involves the production of an ancient commodity. The East Neuk Salt Company was founded in 2019 and delivered its first batch of hand-harvested flakes two years later. Run by married couple Darren and Mhairi Peattie, the organic substance is in great demand and is the first salt to be crystallised at St Monans in 200 years. We strolled around the harbour, admiring the charming houses grouped along the shoreline.
The East Pier Smokehouse was closed until Easter but it brought back memories of an outdoor meal in the immediate post lockdown period. St Monans has three piers and the most famous is the breakwater that sticks out into the North Sea in zigzag fashion. It can be viewed by climbing halfway up a steel ladder set into the main harbour wall. We had a good view of the impressive Auld Kirk at the eastern end of the village, said to be the nearest place of worship to the sea in the whole of Scotland. The church authorities have confirmed they wish to divest themselves of the heritage property and hopefully a solution can be found that includes the local community. There was some bird action in the harbour basin and we saw curlew and redshank pottering about in the mud. Our next destination was Bowhouse - a collection of artisan food and drink businesses within an old farm steading on the Balcaskie Estate, near Elie. The stated aim is to connect small-scale concerns with restaurants and shoppers, giving everyone better access to the delightful wares the East Neuk has to offer. Much of the seafood and farm produce leaves the region before local people have a chance to see what's available. A number of pigs were rooting around inside an enclosure by the main entrance. The Bowhouse project attempts to redress the trading situation and a market is held on the second Saturday and Sunday of each month. Nine retailers operate within the complex (plus two plots outside) and around half of them were open when we arrived for a look around. I couldn't believe my luck when I left the car-park and stumbled right into a brewery! Futtle creates organic beers alongside seasonal spirits and ferments (such as kombucha). The on-site shop also stocks wines and ciders from other small organic growers. Futtle was established in 2019 and the water comes from a borehole just behind the brewery building. The wide range of organic ales is fully certified by the Soil Association. I entered the bar/shop area where draught was available at £5 per pint. Since I was driving, I sought out a few cans, priced at £4 each. The whole place had a definite hipster craft-beer vibe and a vinyl record played in the corner, where a few racks contained LP's for sale.
The intimate venue has a regular programme of live music events - from local entertainers to touring artists. It seems a worthy venture and I enjoyed the beer at home over the rest of the weekend. Nice to become acquainted with another brewer on the Fife scene. I had a quick look at the Bowhouse Butchery, which offers beef and lamb from grass-fed livestock on the surrounding estate. Whole carcasses are cut up on the premises and there was a full spectrum of choice for the buyer - from prime steaks to offal. Wild venison is sourced from Balcaskie and the small herd of Tamworth pigs lives outside all year. The breed is a natural forager and will find the best available nutrients in any environment. As we were leaving, we saw a flock of corn bunting fly overhead and settle in a distant tree. We crossed the road to the field boundary and pulled out our binoculars. It was a dim day and the birds were a little too far away to secure confirmed identification, but the general appearance fitted and there had been several sighting of corn buntings in this very area the day before. The lowland farmland bird - the largest of the buntings - is often seen perched on wires or posts. A dramatic population decline in the UK makes it a Red List species. A few hundred yards down the road, we halted at Ardross Farm Shop, a family-run business adjacent to the Fife Coastal Path. The selection of goodies is excellent and we filled a basket. Among our purchases were three goose eggs. I could also have bought the Futtle beer at 70p a can cheaper than what the actual brewery charged. You live and learn. We drove home via Elie and were then diverted through Kilconquhar (pronounced Kinnucker) - the first time I had been in the village centre. Another memorable day in the East Neuk.
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