I always have a free Thursday and Friday in the middle of February and this year we booked a hotel in Dundee for a couple of nights. Nicole had to study in the city on both days but I planned to explore and of course we could meet in the evenings. We travelled up on the first train and left our bags at the modern 120-bed Sleeperz Hotel, right next to the station. Opened in 2018 as part of the waterfront redevelopment, the curved frontage looks out over two major visitor attractions - RRS Discovery and the V & A Museum of Design.
Sleeperz specialises in stylish and affordable city-centre accommodation. The company also has a presence in Newcastle and Cardiff and all three hotels are highly convenient for rail travellers. Dundee has experienced an uplift in hotel capacity over the last decade, with the stylish Malmaison (pictured) coming on stream in 2014. The late Victorian building opposite Sleeperz was fully refurbished after a spell of decline. The train had been fairly quiet on the way up from Inverkeithing. We all take things in our own region for granted and most people don't get particularly excited about travelling on the line between Edinburgh and Dundee. It is however one of the great British railway journeys. You cross two wide estuaries on majestic bridges and there are great sea views to enjoy on the Fife coast. Nicole headed to university and and I jumped on a bus to the outskirts of the Dundee municipal area near Monifieth. The plan for today was to walk an 8-mile section of the Green Circular trail. Loosely following the city council boundaries, the path runs for 25 miles and is also cycle friendly. I had completed a similar distance on my previous visit to Dundee and began today's route by following the Dighty Burn through a wooded glen. There was a constant misty drizzle - the type of weather that doesn't seem so bad if you're out in it for five minutes. But over the course of my walk I got steadily wetter. Nothing for it though, but to plough on. I soon encountered the grand seven-arch Balmossie Viaduct that carried the Dundee to Forfar railway (closed completely in 1967). Opened in 1870, the line provided a direct link to the county town of Angus and its agricultural hinterland. The 17-mile route swung away from the main coastal line at Broughty Ferry and headed north. The formation can easily be traced across the fields on satellite maps but the urban section has been obliterated by new roads and housing, meaning the connection will never re-open. The 150-yard viaduct stands alone in the den, rising to a height of 75 feet. The A-listed structure was formally converted to walkway around 20 years ago and I had previously passed over while staying in Monifieth.
Today the path took me through an archway and the persistent rain discouraged me from climbing the steps to the top of the viaduct. My mission was to keep moving forward. I exited the woodland and skirted several housing estates. All traces of the railway had disappeared here. Passenger services were withdrawn as far back as 1955 due to increased competition from road vehicles. Forfar lost its large railway station in 1967 and by 1982 all freight links to the town had been cut. A sad end to a busy railway interchange that once saw several lines converge. Rail journeys in the County of Angus are now restricted to the coastal run. Back on the walking trail, I found navigation easy as the route is well signposted. I emerged on the A92 and followed a tarred cycleway atop a grassy embankment. I spotted a retail park in the distance which would allow me to escape the rain for a short while and use the toilet facilities. An information board told me about Claypotts Castle, slightly off the Green Circular. I decided to bash on and research the building at a later date. Maintained by Historic Environment Scotland, the castle is now surrounded by residential properties and is one of the best-preserved examples in the country of a 16th-century tower house. The building consists of projecting towers at opposite sides of a rectangular main block, known as a z-plan. Entry isn't possible at the moment but the exterior can easily be viewed. I must stop for a look on a nicer day. The official route went right past a Sainsbury's superstore and I nipped into a warm and dry environment. Fortunately the trail soon bent away from the dual carriageway and for the next three and a half miles I paralleled the Dighty Burn. It wasn't the prettiest of strolls - taking me between several sets of industrial premises - but at least it was traffic free and wherever there's clean flowing water, you will find some form of wildlife. My theory was proven when a dipper darted by. Our largest aquatic songbird searches for food underwater, withstanding strong currents in the process. Seeing Dippy McDipper in action certainly alleviated the gloomy nature of my walk. I passed a group of exercise machines installed on the river bank and also noted a breaker's yard with cars stacked several storeys high. Curiously, all the tyres had been removed. They must have been the easiest pickings. I wandered by a football ground, home of Dundee St James, and also spotted a BMX track.
Pictured right is Balmossie Viaduct from the beginning of my journey. As I walked through parkland between residential areas - still following the Dighty - I came across another arched structure that clearly belonged to a bygone age. A long and low slender stone viaduct with a dozen arches spanned the valley containing the burn. My first thought was an old railway but I wasn't aware of any lines running up this way. It might have been an industrial link and I resolved to research the matter when I returned home. What I discovered was indeed fascinating. The bridge wasn't built to carry trains but instead conveyed a water main into the city from a reservoir at Monikie. The 166-yard Finlathen Aqueduct was constructed in 1846 and is reckoned to be the largest of its type designed for public water supply. The structure was originally covered with turf to keep the pipes cool in summer and provide protection from frost in winter. The system soon became overwhelmed as Dundee rapidly expanded and - despite the fitting of an extra pipe in 1862 - the Loch of Lintrathen was utilised as an additional water source. The aqueduct was converted to a public footpath in the mid-20th century as new peripheral housing appeared. School pupils frequently used the crossing but tragedy struck in 1998 when rival gangs staged a pitched battle and 15-year-old John Kidd died after being struck on the head with a rock. Repairs became a necessity in the early-2000s as time caught up with the Victorian bridge and it was closed in 2019 when a section of wall crumbled away due to water saturation. Following a local campaign, Dundee City Council agreed to spend around £1 million on a full restoration programme that was to last three years. It is now back in public use, providing a very useful link within an area of green space.
The path led me below the aqueduct and the rain dissuaded me from taking time out to explore the top. As it happened, I met a sign informing me the next section of footpath was closed for resurfacing. I could see men working in the distance and I formulated a quick detour along a nearby street. As I walked up a grass bank, I was able to look down upon the aqueduct from my vantage point. That would suffice for today! A high footbridge took me over the busy A90 (the main road to Aberdeen) and the traffic noise dissipated as I returned to the Dighty and approached Trottick Nature Reserve. The fast-flowing burn was once used to power over 30 mills and I stood on the spot where a derelict example was demolished in the late 1970s. I passed a SUDS basin (Sustainable Urban Drainage System) which collects run-off from roads and paving, allowing the water to soak away naturally rather than cause flooding issues. Foreign bodies such as gravel simply sink to the bottom of the pool. Wetland plants are becoming established in the basin and the long-term aim is to attract wildlife. The 14-mile Dighty is now a ribbon of pure water and the days of industrial pollution are a fading memory. The Trottick mill ponds played an important role in the production of linen at the Claverhouse bleachfield works. Created over 200 years ago and connected to the Dighty by a system of sluices and lades (still in use today to help manage the reserve), the ponds provided a steady supply of water for the industrial process. On a warm afternoon, this oasis of tranquillity would have been a lovely location to enjoy a leisurely packed lunch. Today I perched myself on the edge of a bench and hastily consumed my sandwiches before moving on. The ducks and geese in the water went about their business as usual. Trottick is a designated conservation area and traces of the linen industry can be identified in the surrounding streets. Many cottages built to house workers are still standing and parts of an old mill have been incorporated into modern residential developments. An imposing chimney and clocktower are easy to spot.
I passed up the opportunity to wander through the bleachfield meadow. This is where the linen was finished off. After treatment with chemicals, the fabric was laid out to dry and lighten in the sun. I exited the reserve and found myself back in residential territory. I walked a mile along Harestane Road, which took me past Baldragon Academy. A new-build complex, with an adjacent primary school and nursery, the integrated campus covers a large footprint and cost around £30 million. A swimming pool and numerous all-weather sports pitches were part of the deal. I finally reached the point where my previous Green Circular walk (in the opposite direction) had ended and I followed Strathmartine Road back towards the city centre, two and a half miles away. Through the district of Downfield and over the Kingsway (A90), a dual carriageway that runs on an east-west axis and basically cuts Dundee in half. I passed by the tenements of Coldside and into Hilltown, where many of the tower blocks have vanished from the inner-city landscape. I finally reached the back entrance to the Wellgate shopping centre, stepping into much-needed warmth. In my student days (early 90s), the Wellgate thronged with people but - like many other malls - footfall has seriously declined since the widespread use of online commerce. The centre is built into the foot of a sharp incline and you enter at the top level from the Hilltown side. This floor contains a food court but only Burger King is still trading. The market hall of independent outlets has been closed since the turn of the century. On the plus side, a gym has opened and the central library is still there. I worked my way down to ground level via the two middle floors and noticed a few empty units. The business model has clearly changed, with bargain stores (and even a charity shop) now occupying prominent positions. A sign of the times. Having put in the hard miles, the next couple of hours had been set aside for a couple of pints in Wetherspoons and the chance to dry off. I found a quiet corner next to a radiator and relaxed with a book. Two thirds of the Green Circular were now complete and I had already done the other part along the coast before becoming aware of the formal trail. My work here was done.
I met up with Nicole when she finished her lessons and we went back to Sleeperz for a nap (and a change of clothes for me). We had dinner in the Trades House - a Belhaven chain pub that serves hearty fare. A series of stained glass windows depict the traditional city occupations. The bar area was set up for sports viewing, with multiple large screens. Food was served in a corner snug and the service was swift and friendly. Afterwards we walked down to Discovery Point where the V & A Museum was illuminated. The famous polar vessel RSS Discovery sits in an adjacent dock. We were perfectly satisfied with the hotel furnishings and our room looked over the waterfront streets. The breakfast buffet had a good selection of hot and cold options and I couldn't resist reaching for a small packet of Cocoa Pops - my favourite childhood cereal. I had a more leisurely programme ahead of me today and first up was a visit to HMS Unicorn - Dundee's other maritime heritage attraction. The ship is permanently anchored in Victoria Dock, just beyond the city centre. Today the quayside hosts leisure facilities, retail outlets and modern residential apartments. HMS Unicorn dates from 1824 and is the oldest British-built ship still afloat. She is a rare naval survivor from the days of sail and was built at Chatham Royal Dockyard in Kent. Originally conceived as a 46-gun frigate, Unicorn arrived at Dundee in 1873 as a training facility for the Royal Naval Reserves – a role she carried out until the late 1960s. The ship was never rigged upon completion as the Napoleonic Wars had ended and there was no call for her to be launched into active service. A superstructure was erected over the main deck and Unicorn was destined to function as a hulk. I thought the £8.80 admission charge was reasonable as there was a lot to explore. The tour began with a video presentation in a separate room before I proceeded up the gangplank. I had visited once before, over 20 years ago. The ship back then was geared towards staging events and the public exhibits took a back seat. Now the reverse is the case and Unicorn is marketed fully as a museum.
I had to mind my head as I roamed around the deck space. Six-foot-plus sailors must have been a rarity in pre-Victorian times! Frigates had less firepower than a first-rate warship but they had the advantage of being easier to manoeuvre in battle. Unicorn was equipped with carronades which could fire heavier ammunition over shorter distances. The nimble frigate was therefore a highly effective member of a fighting fleet. Descending to the lower level, I viewed the captain's quarters. The quality of crew accommodation was determined strictly by rank, with the ordinary seamen having to make do with simple hammocks. The provision of fresh drinking water on sailing ships was a key issue and it was strictly rationed. I passed through the gun room, mess deck and learned about how the men lived on naval vessels in days gone by. Discipline was strictly enforced! During WW2, Unicorn became the first and only Georgian warship to be staffed by females. The Women's Royal Naval Service established a regional headquarters here and over 1500 recruits were trained in the art of wireless communication. They were billeted four to a room in Mather's Hotel (now the Malmaison). Unicorn also accepted the formal surrender of a German U-boat in the dying days of the conflict. The Unicorn Preservation Society was founded in 1968 to protect the future of the historic wooden craft - designed by naval architect Robert Seppings. The son of a cattle salesman, young Robert found work as an apprentice shipwright and went on to introduce several new construction techniques, pioneering the use of "iron knees" to strengthen the ship and reduce the need for specially grown compass timbers which were becoming increasingly difficult to source. The UPS was granted ownership of the old lady and public access has been available since 1975. With Unicorn now exactly 200 years old, the society is working tirelessly to steer the ship through a critical conservation phase. Every plank has been surveyed using the latest technology and the structural condition has been thoroughly analysed by computer software. Repairing a vessel of this age is of course a highly specialised operation and the ultimate aim is to preserve the original fabric as far as possible. A temporary steel roof has been installed in order to keep Unicorn wind and watertight as a plan is drawn up.
It had been a fascinating tour and an interesting lesson in naval history. I wandered over to have a look at the other vessel moored in Victoria Dock. North Carr Lightship is 100 feet long and the last of her type remaining in Scotland. Her purpose was to warn mariners by sight, light or sound of the dangers of the North Carr rocks at the turning point between the Forth and Tay estuaries. Built in Glasgow and launched in 1933, she was anchored off Fife Ness until 1975, when an automated lighthouse was installed. The ship's fog horn had a range of 10 miles and kept other vessels well away from the hazards. Disaster struck in 1959 when Scotland was battered by one of the worst storms in years. North Carr broke free from her moorings and began drifting helplessly northwards. A lifeboat crew from Broughty Ferry received the distress signal and launched a rescue mission. Unfortunately the lifeboat Mona capsized in heavy seas and the seven crew members were drowned. The sailors on the lightship were eventually picked up by helicopter. After decommissioning, North Carr was purchased by Northeast Fife Council and brought to Anstruther Harbour to function as a floating museum until 1995. The present owners Taymara (Tay Maritime Action, a voluntary sector organisation) bought the decaying vessel for £1 in 2010 but recently announced the only realistic option is to deconstruct the ship in the near future. The hull has suffered a significant level of degradation and further damage has been caused by multiple leaks. The charity does not possess the means to attempt a restoration and North Carr will set sail for the scrap heap unless a white knight rushes in at the last minute. I headed back towards the city centre, catching a tempting whiff of an Indian buffet restaurant as I left the City Quay complex. Dining was temporarily off the menu as I was still feeling full from breakfast. Next on the list was a visit to the McManus Galleries - a grand Victorian museum that houses the Dundee collection.
Opened in 1867, the building was designed in Gothic style by Sir George Gilbert Scott and features eight galleries over two floors. Admission is free and I have visited many times. If you're in the city and have spare time on your hands, you should explore the centrally located McManus at your leisure. There are exhibitions of art, natural history and the environment. The story of the city's development is covered in great detail and special displays are often on show upstairs. I had a quick look at the familiar galleries then climbed the grand staircase to see what was new. The McManus collection is recognised as being one of national significance to Scotland and all additions - whether donated or purchased - are carefully considered to ensure they complement and enrich the existing body of work. The institution has always supported living artists by exhibiting and acquiring contemporary pieces. I entered the special gallery to browse some of the latest additions to the museum's catalogue. One painting that caught my eye was Who's Afraid of the New Technology, 1987, by Alan Robb, who was Head of Fine Art at Duncan of Jordanstone College in Dundee. The artwork is pictured above and the title indicates that Robb was aware of the creative freedoms offered by the approaching digital revolution in the creative spheres. Another temporary exhibition space showcased a collection of printmaking works, featuring various techniques. Historically, this medium was considered secondary to painting and sculpture, but views began to change in the 1960s as artists sought new methods of conveying personal expression. Printmaking was also an accessible art form to students as the production costs involved were low. The display didn't strike a chord with me and I moved on to the traditional paintings in the permanent gallery.
The Blackbird Song, 1908, (pictured left) by Edward Atkinson Hornel was painted in oils and depicts his trademark theme of young girls in a landscape setting. Brought up in Kirkcudbright, Hornel studied in Edinburgh and Antwerp before becoming part of the Glasgow Boys movement. This collective consisted of several men, most of whom were trained in, or had strong ties to the city of Glasgow. The subject matter featured rural and prosaic scenes from in and around the city. Their colourful depictions attempted to capture the many facets of the character of life in Scotland. In 1901 Hornel purchased Broughton House in Kirkcudbright, which was his main residence for the rest of his life. There he made several modifications to the property and garden, taking inspiration from his travels in Japan. Hornel also added a gallery to hold his paintings. After the artist's death in 1933, his sister continued to live at Broughton until she passed in 1950, after which the townhouse was transferred to the National Trust for Scotland. In his will, Hornel stated his residence should be preserved as a public art gallery for the benefit of Kirkcudbrightshire and visitors thereto. I must check the place out sometime. I finished off the afternoon in Wetherspoons and waited for Nicole to finish at university. Belhaven 80-shilling ale was available for the bargain price of £1.90 and I drank a couple of welcome pints. We walked down to the waterfront and managed to grab a table in a Thai restaurant. After a nice meal, we decamped to the St Andrews Brewing Company, whose spacious premises are located behind the imposing Caird Hall (a major concert and conference venue). The bar has around 20 beers on tap and there is a separate restaurant area. I enjoyed a pint of Fife Gold and thought back to the days when the company sold mini-casks at local farmers markets. On our final day, the train wasn't due to depart until 3.30pm and the plan was to view the Dundee Tapestry display at the V&A Museum. After another buffet breakfast, we strolled along the promenade for a mile, turning round at the Tay Bridge and finishing up at the futuristic looking museum perched on the shoreline.
On my two previous visits, I hadn't been too enthralled by the decorative arts displays (barring a few exceptions) but I was looking forward to seeing the tapestry. It tells the story of the city and its people via 35 individual hand-stitched panels, much like the touring Great Tapestry of Scotland we saw several years ago in Kirkcaldy and which now resides permanently in Galashiels, Selkirkshire. The Dundee version focusses on a timeframe from the mid-19th century to the present day and the collaborative project brought together members of the community through craft groups, social networks and in-person events. The project was conceived and developed by John Fyffe of the Weaver Incorporation of Dundee and Dr Frances Stevenson, senior lecturer at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design. Additional input came from Andrew Crummy, the artist behind the Great Tapestry of Scotland. A team of 140 volunteers from Dundee and the surrounding area created the panels and the result is captivating. The upper concourse was bustling with people admiring the tapestry (it was a Saturday morning) and each piece represented a different flavour of city life. I learned that Dundee once boasted 75 cinemas and the first motion picture was screened in 1896. Ninewells Hospital was named after the surrounding natural springs that once flowed through this part of the city. The less savoury aspects of industrial heritage were acknowledged; the linen trade was built on slave labour and links to that era still exist today through statues, buildings and street names. Arctic whaling was big business in the 19th century and a fleet of ships was based at Dundee. Whale oil was a valuable commodity, in demand as an industrial lubricant as well as for heating and lighting purposes. Whalebone was also profitable and thankfully these giant mammals can now roam the oceans mostly in peace. The Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee is an organisation formed in the 16th century to represent the traditional crafts of bakers, cordiners (shoemakers), glovers, tailors, bonnet makers, fleshers (butchers), hammermen (metal workers), weavers and dyers. The federation remains active today and supports a number of good causes around the city.
Dundee has forged strong links with the medical profession and the university has a global reputation for research. The traditional heavy industry was the production of jute - a natural fibre used in ropemaking and textile production. By late Victorian times, more than 120 mills were in operation but the trade eventually declined due to globalisation, the last plant closing in 1999. Many jute buildings have been repurposed over the years and are not hard to spot when walking around old parts of the city. There was a tapestry square dedicated to the Dundee music scene, which has produced big-selling acts such as Deacon Blue, The View and Snow Patrol. Journalism was, naturally, represented. The illustration above contains characters from two comics known to everyone over 45 - the Beano and Dandy. The latter sadly ceased publication in 2012. The Courier newspaper was established in 1801 and is widely read across Angus, Fife and Perthshire. The parent company, DC Thomson, issued a wide range of magazines and comics over the decades, although this market has declined since the mass availability of t'internet. I found the tapestry thoroughly absorbing and would recommend it to anyone with an interest in Scottish history. The homeward train was bound, rather strangely, for Peterborough and it whisked us back to Inverkeithing. The City of Discovery had not disappointed.
Comments