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  • Writer's pictureWalking With Brian

Dumbarton Rock

Updated: Nov 9, 2022

One of the great things about online mapping is you often find walking trails purely by chance. I had spotted a route along the River Leven running from Balloch at the southern tip of Loch Lomond to Dumbarton on the Clyde. Although I'm a keen user of public transport, there are times when it makes little economic sense or takes way longer than driving. This was one such occasion and I hopped into the car for a trip into deepest Dunbartonshire.


I got a good run along the A811 from Stirling before hitting a very busy Balloch. A running event was in progress and parking was at a premium. I found a spot on the edge of town and wandered into the centre. The river path I wanted to follow was part of the race route but fortunately it was just the stragglers remaining. I strolled along the riverbank on a pleasant day and jumped off the walkway at Alexandria, heading into the town to have a look at the Victorian fountain which was sadly turned off. Back on the Leven trail, I passed a historic football ground. Millburn Park is the home of Vale of Leven FC who now play in the regional leagues. The club was an early giant of the Scottish game, winning the Scottish Cup three times successively in the 1870s. Millburn Park has been their home since 1888 and I perched my camera on the boundary wall to take a few snaps. A groundsman going about his duties shouted over to inform me the gate was open and to come inside. I stood on the old terracing and cast an eye around the arena. No doubt there are many ghosts from the past here.



As I left Alexandria behind, the next settlement on the river was Renton, another famous name from the origins of football. The village team lifted the Scottish Cup twice in the 1880s and were proclaimed "world champions" after defeating the FA Cup holders West Bromwich Albion in a challenge match. A change of scenery was in store as the path ran through an area of marshland on the approach to Dumbarton. Leaving the water at a scenic marina, I made my way to the High Street and bought a sausage supper from a chip shop, eating outside on a bench. It was around a mile and a half to walk out to Dumbarton Castle on the shores of the Clyde. The ancient fortification sits atop the massive volcanic plug of Dumbarton Rock and you certainly can't miss it. I paid the entrance fee and started climbing the first of several flights of steps. There were various exhibition rooms explaining the detailed military history of the castle. It has always occupied a highly strategic position, sitting on one of the main watercourses leading into central Scotland.


The highlight was the viewing platform at the very top of the rock. I could see up and down the Clyde and the hills rose in the distance. Directly below was the home stadium of Dumbarton FC, one of the oldest clubs in the Scottish League. The Sons won the inaugural competition. I was certainly getting my fill of football history today! I could see the entire pitch and you would definitely enjoy a bird's eye view of the action from up here. An amazing panorama and I was glad I'd gone the extra distance from the town to the castle. Back in Dumbarton, I located the railway station which retained a distinct Victorian character and I was soon back in Balloch, the last stop on the line. A great walk with an easy transport connection back to the start. I urge everyone to visit Dumbarton Castle and scale the rock. It really is worth the effort.

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