A couple of months ago, I was dismayed to read on Facebook about the closure of my favourite local hostelry - the Commercial Inn. Located in Dunfermline town centre, I had visited many times over the last 20 years in order to sample the excellent selection of real ale. I was on the bus home from work when I heard the bad news and was actually planning on popping in for a quick pint before changing to a local service - a regular part of my commuting routine (both the bus and the beer, that is). The steel shutters across the doorway confirmed the closure and I completed my homeward journey without the usual bounce in my step. Yes, there is a nice Wetherspoons on the High Street dispensing ever-changing cask beer at bargain prices but the Commercial had a more personal atmosphere and the staff were knowledgeable about their wares, giving you a warm welcome.
A story surfaced in the local press saying the owners of the building were confident the premises would re-open under new management. Fighting talk, but it's a different story finding someone to put up the necessary finance in a day and age where the licensed trade faces harsh challenges. As the weeks ticked by and the entrance remained firmly bolted, I began to prepare for life as a 'Spoons regular. I should say at this point I'm a committed cask drinker and don't frequent pubs that sell only bland keg fare. I began to question my own patronage of the Commercial. Did I go often enough? Could I have done more to support a local business close to my own heart? The answer of course is I was a loyal customer and have absolutely nothing to feel guilty about. I went the extra mile on a couple of occasions where I had the opportunity to choose the venue for a gathering and insisted upon the Commercial - purely to give the place a boost. Individuals can only do so much. Collectively as a society we should remember the old "use it or lose it" maxim. Finally some good news appeared on the horizon. The pub was set to re-open with former head barman Andy Black as new mine host. This was what I'd been waiting to hear. Andy knew the ropes and would almost certainly keep the strong cask tradition alive. Feedback was highly positive on Facebook. Someone enquired whether meals would still be served. Until 5pm was the resounding response. I couldn't manage a visit on the opening weekend but swung by the following Monday on my homeward journey. Just shy of 20 people were inside, an excellent figure for the beginning of the week. Six ales were on tap and I opted for a pint of Musselburgh Broke - a malty bitter that went down a treat on a cold evening.
Obviously interest had been generated by the re-opening and business will settle down into a more regular pattern, but I do wish Andy every success in his new role. He was running in and out, no doubt trying to do three things at once. "24-hour working days are my life now" he said, stopping to shake my hand. Let's hope the relaunch gets off to a good start and this legendary alehouse is re-established as a go-to destination for beer fans visiting Dunfermline. I returned a couple of days later, again on my way home from work. Around 15 people were present which was encouraging to see. This time I opted for a spiced session porter which hit the spot on another chilly evening. The Commercial was known for having a mixed range of beer styles. A common remark in real ale circles is the propensity for many outlets to focus on lighter coloured beers and hoppier varieties. Traditional bitters remain popular but have to jostle for position on the bar whereas previously their presence would have been taken for granted. Winter warming beers enjoy seasonal representation but the overall picture for darker ales (and milds) is not as healthy as it could be. Pubs are of course businesses and must deal with changing social habits and the decline of the High Street. You could certainly argue the influx of golden ales satisfies the younger drinking crowd that represents the future of cask. I enjoy real ale in all its forms and simply wish for a reasonable choice to ensure there is something to suit every taste.
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