Nicole and I began birdwatching a few years ago and the trip to RSPB Loch Garten (near Aviemore) has become something of an annual pilgrimage. It is one of the few places in Scotland where sightings of the crested tit are common. The Loch Garten reserve is nestled within the vast Abernethy Forest which itself is a protected environment. The crested tit thrives among the Caledonian pines but Loch Garten is best known for a much larger inhabitant - the osprey. The area plays a key role in this bird's conservation history.
Previous visits to the reserve usually occurred when we happened to be up north and took the opportunity to nip off the A9 for a few miles. Today we were setting out on a day trip that would include lunch in Aviemore. I also took the opportunity to schedule a visit to the Cairngorm Brewery shop on the edge of town. The weather forecast was mixed and conditions were fine while driving up the A9 but we were greeted in Aviemore by rain showers. The main route to the Highlands is in the process of being converted to dual carriageway status and it was an easy cruise from Perth to Dunkeld. It looks as if the easy bits are being done first, which makes logical sense as this strategy allows benefits to be realised quickly. Major civil engineering challenges lie ahead, particularly in the areas where the existing road was blasted out of the rocky landscape or where deep gorges are spanned by a single-carriageway crossing. But it's good to know firm plans are in place to complete the job all the way to Inverness. We popped into Aviemore Station to use the toilet facilities and I admired the fine Victorian architecture. We once came up here by train in order to take a ride on the Strathspey Heritage Railway which departs from an integrated platform at the mainline station. Steam locomotives traverse 10 mile of track on the old route to Forres that closed back in 1965. The preserved railway opened in 1978, initially to the hostility of British Rail, who refused access to Aviemore Station thereby forcing the volunteer organisation to construct their own terminus elsewhere. This situation seems absurd nowadays as steam trains are a major attraction and the Highlands are heavily dependent on tourism. The situation was resolved in 1998 when a remodelling of Aviemore Station included a bay for heritage tours. The national network had of course been privatised by this time and stuffy attitudes had thawed.
The line passes through the stunning and largely original station at Boat of Garten before terminating at Broomhill, where the replica buildings double for the fictional Glenbogle in the popular TV series Monarch of the Glen. A proposed 3-mile extension to the Morayshire town of Grantown on Spey is currently beset by delays due mainly to the logistics of crossing the A95. The road has been realigned since the original railway was lifted and discussions continue. It makes more economical sense for the line to run between two sizeable towns, each offering visitor attractions. It would be a great shame if the project was buried due to a single pinch point. We exited the mainline station and sought a place to eat (and shelter). Macdui's seemed a good bet and there were plenty of tables available, the restaurant having just opened its doors. We were ushered to a window seat and I ordered a plate of seafood chowder to start, followed by a main course of beef chilli nachos. I had purchased a newspaper earlier and we read our way through the weekend supplements, waiting for the rain to ease, which it eventually did. Off we headed to the Cairngorm Brewery which is located in a small industrial estate on the outskirts of town. As we drove through Aviemore, it occurred to us that - like Fort William on the west coast - the town isn't a pretty destination but offers a good range of services while functioning as a base for walkers and climbers, as well as general tourists. Indeed, we had spent a couple of nights at the local youth hostel a few years ago as part of a navigational course in the nearby mountains. As I pulled into the brewery car park, my sixth sense was alerted by the familiar toot of a train whistle. Moments later, a steam locomotive swept by pulling a rake of carriages alongside the industrial units. Clearly this was not a bad place to work! We were the only visitors to the brewery shop and the full range of bottled ales was on display, along with the customary merchandise. A small bar with ale pumps was unfortunately closed but I quickly began my inspection of the shelves. A couple of Cairngorm beers (e.g. Trade Winds) are widely available in supermarkets across the land and I therefore sought out the brews that were either unfamiliar, or ones that I hadn't tasted for a while.
I grabbed half a dozen Cairngorm bottles and augmented this with a couple of ales from the Loch Ness Brewery - another Aviemore concern. The business was rescued from bankruptcy by Cairngorm, who have now developed a full range under the Loch Ness banner. Tasting sessions and tours were unavailable due to lingering Covid restrictions but - to be honest - I'm just as happy to visit a brewery shop and buy some stock direct from the producer. Naturally, Cairngorm Sheep Shagger's Gold sat proudly among my purchases. We drove out to Boat of Garten in the far corner of Inverness-shire, Scotland's largest county. The Loch Garten reserve lies a couple of miles further on, just inside Abernethy Forest where gnarled, lichen-encrusted Scots pine trees abound, interspersed with other species such as juniper, rowan, birch and the ubiquitous carpeting of heather. Besides the Caledonian pinewood, the wider Abernethy National Nature Reserve includes moorland, wetlands and mountains, indeed stretching all the way to the top of Ben Macdui - Scotland's second highest peak. Today's woodland is a remnant of the great Caledonian pine forest and over half the trees are native to the landscape. The site is carefully managed by the RSPB as it is home to over 70 species of birds, including relative rarities such as Scottish crossbill, crested tits and capercaillie. The Loch Garten visitors centre is seasonal and hadn't yet opened for the year but there were no physical barriers to visitors. We strolled up to the feeding areas where a few people were coaxing coal tits to take grains from their hands. Nicole joined in the fun but - alas - none came to me when I stuck my paw out. Perhaps I just don't have the patience to remain stationary for a sufficient length of time. We always managed to spot the cresties on previous visits but there was no sign of them today. Nothing is guaranteed in nature, which is part of the appeal, but it was a little disappointing to drive such a long distance and leave empty handed. Nevertheless, it was pleasing to watch the smaller birds buzz around and we had an excellent sighting of a woodpecker on a tree trunk.
I've therefore been forced to insert a picture of a crested tit from last year. Largely confined to ancient pine plantations, they forage on trunks and large branches for insects and seeds. Only 1500 pairs currently breed in the UK, but at least they have a secure environment at Abernethy. Far fewer ospreys raise young in this country and Loch Garten played a pivotal part in their return from extinction on these shores. Excessive egg collecting in Victorian times led to a catastrophic decline and by the outbreak of WW1 it is thought the bird had died out across the UK. Fast forward to the 1950s and ospreys naturally made their way across from Scandinavia to Scotland and a pair has nested at Loch Garten since 1959, thereby establishing the site as one of the most popular conservation locations in the country. To date, over two million people have visited. Around 250 nesting pairs of ospreys are thought to be spread across Britain today and the spectacular fish-catcher now sits on the amber list of endangered species. Ironically, many former egg collectors are now firmly on the other side of the fence, perhaps proving there was nothing inherently nasty about their erstwhile pastime, more a case of not knowing any better, or choosing not to think more deeply about how their actions impacted upon the bird population. Most likely, the interest had been passed on from a parent or grandparent. Indeed my own grandad had a varied collection. Time was pressing and we headed back to the A9 via Carrbridge. My planned toilet stop in the village was thwarted due to a vandalism related closure. You'd scarcely believe such behaviour existed in a sleepy Highland location and shows there are rural Scots who have a chip on their shoulder and can't comprehend the concept of taking pride in your hometown. Plain sad. The general store furnished me with a supply of attractive postcards and a couple of snacks for the homeward journey. The main reason for detouring this way was to have a look at the famous packhorse bridge, a structure we first spotted by chance a few years ago while passing through. It is the oldest stone bridge in this part of the country.
Built in 1717, the famous landmark was severely damaged by a storm in 1829 when the River Dulnain was in muckle spate, leaving the bridge in the condition we see today. Both ends are fenced off and the arch is considered highly unstable. You have to wonder if sneaking across is a rite of passage for local teenagers. Certainly a risky undertaking! A packhorse bridge traditionally consisted of a single narrow arch and the parapets were deliberately kept low in order to allow panniers to pass over them. The crossing at Carrbridge was often referred to as the Funeral Bridge, not on account of travellers plunging to their deaths but because the structure allowed coffins to be carried across the river to the local cemetery. Today the bridge is much photographed and the white waters churning below the precarious arch is certainly an impressive sight. It was time to shoot back down the road and just over two hours later we arrived home. A sticky mess was oozing out of my fleece pocket. I'd purchased a Lindt chocolate egg in Carrbridge as a little treat and had totally forgotten about it. Perhaps a reminder from the osprey spirits that they're always watching, and miss nothing.
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