Charlestown circuit (1.3 miles)
Charlestown was planned as an industrial village in the 1770s by Charles Bruce, Earl of Elgin. The estate was rich in limestone and ironstone. Coal from pits further inland was brought to the coast by the Elgin Railway, initially horse-drawn but later utilising steam traction. Add to that shipbuilding and salt production. This small settlement was a powerhouse in the days when a seaboard connection was the only realistic way of moving freight over large distances. Lots of this heritage is still in evidence and the walk takes a look at some of the easily accessible examples. If you donned your urban explorer hat you could unearth a lot more. Helpfully, the Scottish Rights of Way Society have placed green signs around the village indicating the various public footpaths.
Start at the Sutlery, a former granary which now functions as the village shop. Bottled conditioned ales from the nearby Limekilns Brewshed are on sale here. Walk down past the Elgin hotel and as you hit the bend, look for a path leading off to the right. This steep route down to the harbour is known locally as "The Run" and was at one time a quarry tramway. You pass under a bridge halfway down. Have a look around the pleasant harbour area which at one time exported the industrial output. Shipbreaking became a major concern here after the Great War with Imperial German craft being partially dismantled here.
Head along past he impressive limekilns. They were in full production by 1790 and continued until 1956. Some repair work was recently carried out but unfortunately this also included the installation of metal gates. Only limited access is now available. Continue along East/West Harbour Road, following the shoreline as far as possible until the final houses. Pick up a path leading away from the village. This brings us to an overgrown railway with tracks still in place. The line formerly continued as far as the harbour.
A couple of hundred yards from the rusting buffer stop, the railway splits in two. If you bear right you will almost immediately emerge at the ghostly remains of Braeside Halt. Personnel for the nearby Crombie naval base at one time disembarked here. We need to get on top of the footbridge and this is most easily accomplished by backtracking to Braeside Junction and following the other line. You will quickly see a flight of concrete steps that leads to the bridge. You could also walk the coast line for a further 250 yards up to the MOD Crombie gates and then turn back. No trains have been seen down this way since 1993 and the railway is now disconnected from the national network. You are on completely safe ground here.
Once over the bridge, follow the path back to an access road. Height is gained and there are nice views over Ironmill Bay, partially off-limits to the public. Proceed to the junction but instead of following the main road back into the village, turn right down a walkway signed as "Shell Road"
The path enters woodland and crosses an ancient viaduct dating from 1820. The Elgin Railway originally followed this course before being realigned along a gentler gradient. It's easy walk this route and be completely unaware of the viaduct as the parapet walls tend to be obscured by vegetation. It is possible to backtrack a bit and scramble down for a view of the arches, now fighting a battle against nature. Be careful if you attempt this.
Shell Road leads back to West Harbour Road. Almost immediately on your left is another footpath - signed "Lime Brae" - which curves back uphill past the limekilns. Take this route which brings us to a road alongside the Elgin Hotel. On your way up, it is possible to access the top of the kilns as there are gaps in the flimsy fencing (but I didn't tell you that!) A lovely view of the harbour is the prize and there is even an old 100-yard tramway tunnel to be found if you know where to look. Take care on top of the kilns as there are a couple of pits where the surrounding fencing has decayed. Return to your start point by turning left at the hotel. I hope you have enjoyed your industrial tour of Charlestown. A substantial report on the village's past and present can be viewed here.
