Kirkcaldy Doors Open Day

The month of September hosts Doors Open Day across Scotland. It gives the public an opportunity to tour buildings and locations that are not readily accessible and also offers a behind the scenes look inside more familiar places. Admission is free and there is usually no need to book in advance.

I studied the Fife programme and noticed the Merchant House in Kirkcaldy was one of the venues. It's a category-A listed gem dating from the 1500's and one of the finest surviving townhouses from this era. The building is currently vacant and accessible only on special open days. I immediately stuck a pin into this option. The Adam Smith Heritage Centre also caught my eye and is conveniently situated just along the promenade from Merchant's House. A third possibility was the Old Kirk which promised excellent views across the Lang Toun from the historic tower. The three venues formed a handy circular trail and both my mum and sister opted to join me. I drove to Lochgelly to collect Mum and we met Linda at Kirkcaldy Harbour. From there it was a short stroll into the gardens of the Merchant House.

The grounds to the rear of the property have been given a manicure and the lawn slopes steeply up to the boundary wall. I clambered up the path, chatted briefly with the gardener and framed the picture you see above. I was very happy with this shot and began to make my way back down. I had barely taken a step when a sparrowhawk swooped on to the grass right in front of me. It was holding what appeared to be the remains of a pigeon in its talons and merrily feasted as I snapped away. This was my first close encounter with a bird of prey and it was a real bonus to see it doing what nature intended. The gardener and his buddy had obviously noticed the goings on and were debating what type of bird it might be. I turned around, whispered it's a sparrowhawk and they instantly confirmed the quarry was indeed a pigeon. We must have been making just a little too much noise and the bird flew off, lifting its lunch with ease. I eagerly showed the pics to Linda (herself a keen birder) and I think it's fair to say she was "well jell" - as was Nicole when I sent a copy to her phone.

And so to the house itself. There was a small exhibition in an outbuilding giving information about the maritime history of Kirkcaldy. Volunteers were on hand to answer questions and a lady explained that the house was owned by a heritage trust and their aim was to let the property to local businesses so that it may have a use within the community. However, the extremely tight regulations governing modifications to listed buildings was in many ways proving a hindrance. It's not an easy one to solve and I am simply thankful the property is no longer neglected and that restoration works have halted the deterioration. Some of the original features such as wall paintings and decorated beams have been uncovered and left exposed to remind us of a glorious past.

A stroll along the seafront took us to the heritage centre devoted to the life and works of Adam Smith - Kirkcaldy's most famous son and the founding father of modern economics. The museum is run by volunteers and at the moment has only limited opening times. I relished the chance to have a peek inside. A comprehensive display on the ground floor told the story of Smith's achievements and also highlighted the fact he never lost touch with his roots and frequently returned to his home town after the international success of his major published piece - The Wealth of Nations. While believing in the free market, Smith was hesitant about letting it run riot and recognised the need for state intervention wherever necessary. All eminently sensible to me. There was a workshop underway upstairs but we elected to move on to the Old Kirk. The ancient church was the first place of Christian Worship in Kirkcaldy and written records point back as far as 1244. The current tower dates from the 15th century and I wanted to scale it. As luck would have it, a tower tour was preparing to leave as soon as we entered the building and I joined the group. Linda decided to explore the church interior with Mum. The tower guide gave a brief talk at the bottom of the steps where there was a display commemorating the townsfolk who fell in the Great War 1914-1919. It was pointed out that although the conflict ended as 1918 drew to a close, many soldiers actually passed away the following year due to injuries sustained.

The summit offered a lovely panoramic view and the sea was a beautiful cerulean colour. Nearby was the taller spire of St Bryce Kirk, which amalgamated with the Old Kirk in 2010. Both places have an extensive programme of community events which is exactly how modern churches should function. Apparently the reason for St Bryce having the giant steeple is down to good old-fashioned spite. The Nairn family ran the town's lucrative linoleum trade for generations and after a falling out with the hierarchy of the Old Kirk, decided to invest a huge sum in the construction of something bigger and better. All in the true Christian spirit, a theory put forward by the guide and subsequently vociferously echoed by Linda back on ground level. We took the tour of the adjoining graveyard which turned out to be a fascinating delve into Kirkcaldy's past as the lady leading the group skilfully wove diverse tales into the dialogue. Apparently it was a Kirkcaldy man who first exported camels to Australia! At what environmental cost we may ask! A lovely afternoon exploring a corner of the old Lang Toun on a sunny day. What shall I visit next year?

Calton Hill & Bier Hoose

Another German meetup and a chance to squeeze in an Edinburgh walk beforehand. I took the bus direct from work to the city and made a beeline for Calton Hill - the small peak which overlooks central Edinburgh and offers sufficient elevation to gaze across the rooftops all the way to the Firth of Forth and towards Fife. I had been up the hill a couple of times in the past for the annual Beltane Fire Festival, a traditional Celtic celebration marking the arrival of summer. The modern event was established in the late 80s and has grown to become a major gathering which is fully ticketed and stewarded.

Calton Hill is 338 feet high and easily reached from the rail and bus stations. A steep walkway brings you to the summit and there are several structures to explore, not least the National Monument of Scotland, a Parthenon inspired tribute to the Scottish soldiers and sailors who fell in the Napoleonic Wars. Construction began in 1826 but was halted after the funds ran dry, resulting in a folly. The partial state of completion no doubt helped cement its status a major visitor attraction. The Dugald Stewart Monument (pictured above) is another famous landmark and popular spot for taking photos of the Edinburgh skyline. There were quite a few tourists milling around on a pleasant evening. Judging by the number of parked minibuses, it must be a routine stop on city tours. I made my way back down to street level and stopped for a quick pint in Wetherspoons. A cask conditioned lager - Schiehallion by Harviestoun of Alva - slaked my thirst as I uploaded my pictures.

The meeting was being held around halfway down Leith Walk in the Bier Hoose, formerly known for decades as the Boundary Bar due to the fact it straddled the burghs of Edinburgh and Leith. Drinking in Edinburgh pubs is a rather expensive activity but I'd secured a private tuition session the night before and was out to enjoy this unexpected cash bonus. I ordered up an organic stout from the Black Isle Brewery, proffered a fiver and received only shrapnel in return. My beer had to be re-poured as the first attempt resulted in two thirds of a glass of froth. This brief spell of frustration over, I joined my Kumpels in the far corner. The Bier Hoose specialises in German and Belgian drinks. There is a wide selection of bottles available but I was sticking to the taps. I next decided to sample the house lager, mainly as the £3.60 cost would give me a pound coin in my change which I could pass to Peter as my meetup donation. Around a dozen people were present, no newcomers this time but that's the nature of the beast and it was good to catch up with old faces. Oh, and the Bier Hoose lager turned out to be a lovely pint.

Dunfermline Film Festival

I've long been a film buff and jumped at the chance to attend a festival just along the road in the ancient capital of Scotland. The Outwith Festival was launched in Dunfermline a couple of years ago and features a programme of music, theatre, cinema and more. I happened to spot a Facebook post from Dunfermline microbrewery Seven Kings, announcing they were operating a pop-up bar at the film sessions in the library/museum.

I was already sold and a perusal of the cinema guide revealed an independent Scottish flick showing on the Thursday evening at 17.45. The time slot fitted my homeward commute perfectly and Nicole wanted to come too. We met up in the library and headed upstairs. The bar area was well appointed with four pumps in action. I had already seen three of the ales in the Commercial Inn the previous week and tried two of them. Seven Kings have just come on-stream and it's good to see the brewery penetrate the local market. I opted for a pint of their pale ale (Fallen King) and chatted with the brewmaster who turned out to be a rather pleasant chap. He drew my attention to the fourth pump - a cask conditioned lager. You don't see many of them around but I was of course willing to give it a try. I finished off my first pint and took the lager into the auditorium. It was a lovely brew and I would definitely drink it again. There were around 25 people present, not bad considering the movie was a crowdfunded venture and being shown at a time when many people are on their way home from work or eating dinner. There was a short interview with the director/producer/writer who talked about the travails of raising the finance. The initial flurry of donations slowed to a trickle but fortunately a late surge knocked the project over the line. Then there was the issue of selling a film centred on male mental health to the distributors. However, it transpired that a few art-houses around had taken a punt.

The movie was eminently watchable and a good effort considering the tight budget. The extra pint had a predictable effect on the old bladder and I had to nip out to the loo midway through. A great evening out at a fair price. A fiver admission and £3.50 for an ale. The only way these festivals will ever return is if folk get out and support them and I was pleased to have done my bit. I like the fact that local beers are now seen as a key component of community-based gatherings and it exposes the produce to those who don't frequent real-ale pubs. I read on the Seven Kings Facebook page that business at the bar had been brisk over the four-day event. Afterwards there was time for a stroll around the museum gardens which back on to Abbot House - the oldest building in Dunfermline. Unfortunately it has been closed to the public for a few years following a dispute over the lease. A side effect of this wrangle was the closure of the excellent little brewery that operated in one of the outhouses and whose owner - the affable John Reid - always gave a warm welcome to those who stuck their heads around the door. On a more positive note, I hear the wheels are currently in motion regarding the reopening of the historic house to the public.